For a brief journey to Japan, look no further than Mexico City. Although the capital has a thriving Korean community, few realize about its Little Tokyo district, tucked within the quiet Cuauhtémoc community directly north of Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City’s first artery. Contrary to popular notion, Japanese culture isn’t unfamiliar to CDMX. It all commenced four centuries ago, while a samurai sailed to Acapulco and became the first ambassador to New Spain. Another wave of Japanese human beings observed match throughout World War II—laying the foundation for Little Tokyo via starting Asian groceries, teppanyaki restaurants, and a Japanese Embassy in the ‘70s.
One of these immigrants became the grandfather of Edo López, the person who has single-handedly converted Little Tokyo. Born in Tijuana to Mexican parents, López adopted his Japanese roots—which includes his mom’s maiden name, Kobayashi—after learning about his maternal grandfather, who fled Japan in WWII to search for shelter in Mexico. He then pulled all his savings to debut the primary high-end established order in his empire of more than ten sushi spots, izakayas, and sake bars throughout Mexico City.
Thanks to the efforts of Kobayashi and different entrepreneurial Japanese immigrants, Little Tokyo has garnered attention as a destination inside the heart of CDMX (a lot that the embassy and neighborhood groups are lobbying for a proper designation). Today, the vicinity’s leafy blocks are covered with yakitori eateries, ramen joints, and whiskey watering holes.
Drop your bags at Ryo Kan, an upscale twist on a traditional Japanese inn. The 12-month-old motel—courtesy of architect Regina Galvanduque of GLVDK Studio—marries Japanese layout with Mexican substances. The stark white exterior and origami-like façade lend the building a feel of Zen amongst Mexico City’s vibrant murals and frenetic atmosphere. The simple interiors are similarly serene: there’s a nonviolent courtyard surrounded by a koi pond and rock garden in addition to 10 minimalist guest rooms with blond wooden and terrazzo stone fixtures, handwoven tatami mats, yukata gowns, intricate tea units, and occasionally slung beds bordered by fusuma sliding doors. The actual surprise, however, is the rooftop’s four deep-soaking onsen tubs that overlook the skyline.
When you’re rested and equipped to hit the ground running, turn right out of Ryo Kan and walk down Rio Panuco, where you’ll discover most of the people of the new Japanese eating places, bars, and shops. Pop in EXIT La Librería, Mexico’s first modern art bookstall, to browse the choice of structured photography books and Spanish-language Japanese literature via Satori Press. Flip through the pages over Tamago egg or red meat katsu sandos (Japanese sandwiches) and carajillos (Mexican espresso cocktails) at Kobayashi’s Enomoto Coffee, and a café stimulated with the aid of kissaten, Japanese tearooms. If you stay until night, the gap will become Le Tachinomi Desu, a tiny Tokyo-style status bar that pours natural wines plus Japanese sake and whiskey.
The Kobayashi tour makes a round the corner at Hiyoko, a 14-seat yakitori-ya that grills skewered hen, quail, wagyu red meat, sea bass, and buttered corn. Hidden upstairs is Emília, a long-awaited restaurant that launched in December. Chef Luis “Lucho” Martínez whips up a rotating tasting menu of 9 to 12 seasonal Japanese-encouraged dishes, consisting of smoked duck yuzu dashi soup and yellowtail sashimi. Once you’re completed, head down the road to the late-night speakeasy, Tokyo Music Bar, wherein you may linger over cocktails and listen to eclectic vinyl information.
